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Pansy Nulgit and Karen Groves seal the
friendship during our first visit to the Kimberley in 2004 |
Ngarinyin Friendship
Our club's aim is simple -
to form a lasting friendship with the women of the Ngarinyin communities in
the Kimberley region of Western Australia.
Why? Because we
can...
The indigenous people in
Australia have had a torrid history since the settlement of Australia by
Europeans over two hundred years ago. Through a complex range of
policies and practices this has resulted in many of the traditional owners
of the land being among its most disadvantaged.
It is a situation shared by
many indigenous people around the world whose land at one time or another
was settled by a colonial power.
So what can we, as Zontians,
do to advance the status of these women? This was a question raised by
a member in the club... and the simple answer came back - ask them!
The story of our
relationship is quite unique and the early days are described below in the
following chapters. If you want to skip ahead, just use the hyperlinks
below:
Who are the Ngarinyin People?
Making the connection
First visit to the
Kimberley
Helping friends
The Art Exhibition and the White Angel
Benefits of the White Angel
What next?
How can you help?
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Paper on Social
Entrepreneurship presented to World Conference of International Council for
Small Business in June 2006 |
Who are the Ngarinyin
people?
The Ngarinyin people and
other tribal groups in the region are custodians of the oldest known
figurative art in north-western Australia. The Wandjina Spiritual Sanctuary
is a vast area of about 200,000 square kilometres of lands, waters, sea and
islands with continuous culture dating back beyond 60,000 years. Here
traditional law and culture are active and alive. The Wandjina Spiritual
Sanctuary is the hub. It holds the entire history of human culture which is
embodied in the icon, the Wandjina. The Wandjina is a philosophy, a
spirituality and a symbol which evokes intense energy and spirituality in
whoever is in its space. The Ngarinyin people are one of three Wandjina
tribes, the other two are Wunambal and Worrorra.
The Ngarinyin have been
highly visible in recent decades with their action in the 1990s to return to
their tribal lands in the Kimberley from Derby, where they had been
forcefully moved in 1950; in the establishment of the ‘Bush University’; in
the use of the Wandjina symbol in the opening ceremony of the 2000 Olympic
Games in Sydney; and in the publication of the book Gwion Gwion Dulwan
Mamaa: Secret and Sacred Pathways of the Ngarinyin Aboriginal People of
Australia which depicts their figurative art.
There are four Ngarinyin communities along the
Gibb River Road in the Kimberley region of Western Australia:
Imintji (Mount House Station), Kupungarri (Mount Barnett Station),
Ngallagunda (Gibb River Station) and Dodnun (Mount Elizabeth Station). In
total a population of less than 1,000 people.
This is the story of how
the Zonta Club of Perth began its friendship with the wonderful senior
Ngarinyin lawwomen ...who live over 3,000 kilometres from the metropolitan
area of Perth.
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Making friends by the Gibb River |
Making the connection
This story begins with two
remarkable women meeting at a conference in Perth, Western Australia.
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Kathy Charlesworth has had
an interest in the dynamics of indigenous displacements since 1963, when she
lived in the Kimberley and Pilbara regions. Prior to that she had also
seen displacement of the Bedouin people in the deserts of Saudi Arabia. Kathy, now a
Fremantle-based photojournalist, is a trusted friend of the Ngarinyin people
and often lives with the Ngarinyin women during her prolonged visits to the
Kimberley region. She understands their culture, hopes and aspirations
and has shared in the joys and sadness of the communities for over forty
years.
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Sciona Browne, member of
the Zonta Club of Perth is an entrepreneur and former test pilot. She
has lived and was educated in most states of Australia and has strong
connection with the land. Sciona is passionate about the aims of Zonta
International and through discussions with Kathy sought ways for the two
communities to meet.
Sciona and Kathy talked
with Pansy Nulgit from the Kupungarri community on the Gibb River Road to
float the idea of a visit by members from the Zonta Club of Perth, so the
women from each community could meet and share their cultures. Sciona
then put a proposal to the club for a visit to the Kimberley region.
The visit would rely on
each club member paying for their own travelling costs. The 3,000 km
journey involved flying on a commercial plane from Perth to Kununnurra and
then travelling by a four wheel drive mini bus (called an OKA) to Kupungarri
400 km over unsealed roads and through rivers. There are no hotels in
this remote region, so accommodation would consist of tents, camp fires,
rivers for washing and holes dug for toilets...and this would cost nearly
AUS$4,000 per person (twice the cost of a round the world air ticket).
In spite of this advert for discomfort, eleven members (nearly one third of
the total club membership) put their hands up to meet the challenge!
Sciona inspired many of the
'tenderfoot' members who had not camped before, as she had been the runner
up on the television program 'Australian Survivor' that involved her living
off the land for many weeks. We had confidence that with Sciona we
could survive the harshest that nature could throw at us! Over a few
supper evenings she showed us how to roll a swag and what to take in our
very small bags.
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The story of the first
Ngarinyin visit was written up in the
June Inzert of 2004.
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First visit to the
Kimberley
When we arrived in
Kununnurra, we were met by the OKA and its driver Brownie, who had run
camping trips in the region for decades. Sadly, one of the windows was
broken on the OKA and could not be replaced in time for our journey, so we
travelled in sunglasses to protect our eyes not only from the sun, but also
from the red dust that blew in from the unsealed roads and entered every
pore in our bodies!
Eight hours later, with
still bodies rattling, we arrived at Kupungarri close to sunset and set up
our camp on some flat land near the road that is used by local people for
meetings. That evening we met community leaders and took great delight
in sharing a meal together (cooked over a camp fire after we had collected
the wood and found water!).
Over the next few days we
met Pansy, Gilgie, Lucy, Kitty, Yvonne and Maudie - all senior Ngarinyin law
women. The Ngarinyin women aged from 50 to 86, the Zonta women aged
from 48 to 86! Sitting in the sand next to a beautiful inland waterway
we learned to define ourselves in terms of the land as salt water women,
fresh water women and even mountain women! Together we learned about
life at Kupungarri and a few days later moved our camp to the neighbouring
community about 100km away called Ngallagunda (Gibb River Station), so we
could see more of the sacred places.
These very shy women were
so generous to us. English is their second language and for some of
them their literacy skills are elementary. At first, it was not easy
to get out of our city ways - we had to learn that the plan for the day was
that there was no plan! Acceptance was our first lesson, learning to
sit and be at one with our environment our second. Slowly our outcome
based city living ways were replaced with a timeless wonder for the land
around us.
Traditionally, in
aboriginal thinking, there is no ownership, only belonging and we were
learning to belong...
Our Ngarinyin friends are
the custodians of the rock art in their area and by following the local
traditions of being sung in and smoked out we were able to visit a few of
these sacred sites. Some of the paintings are over 10,000 years old,
being painted by their ancestors. Sitting by the paintings of the
Wandjina we could literally feel the country and spirit of the land around
us.
Sadly our Ngarinyin friends
cannot get to their art to maintain it very often as most of it is located
on private land and they do not have a suitable vehicle to access it.
Some paintings are over 50km away. They spoke of 'tourists' bringing
power tools to physically cut the paintings out of the rock - this causes
them great sadness as they are powerless to stop it.
We had a wonderful week,
sharing our stories, listening and learning. We learned about bush
tucker, caught fish, dug for sugar bag (traditional honey found below ground
among the rocks), made clapping sticks, underwent women's business with
painted faces and laughed and cried together.
Beside the Gibb River we
talked into the sunset and somewhere during this time something happened to
us all - we gelled - we now met as sisters and could help each other as
friends.
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Sciona Browne shows members the Wandjina
painting that Yvonne Burgu had painted and gifted to the Club from which
blank greetings cards were made |
Helping friends
A couple of months later,
our club was delighted to have the opportunity of hosting Yvonne Burgu, one
of the senior lawwomen we had met in the Kimberley. Yvonne had been
invited to paint a banner to hang at the United Nations in Geneva to mark
the end of the decade of indigenous people. Yvonne and another artist
were travelling to Geneva for the big event. Our club was able to
provide suitable clothing for Yvonne (there are no boutiques on the Gibb
River Road) and on her return, hosted both artists for a week in the city.
We had great fun going to art galleries, shops, sharing meals together and
meeting up with Yvonne's young nieces who were at boarding school in Perth.
To thank us for the
hospitality, Yvonne gave a painting to the club that she created during her
stay with us. It is called Wandjina, two snakes, owl and brolga.
The club arranged for
blank greetings cards to be made of the painting and these are sold to
provide funds to post parcels to the Kimberley.
Our club also was able to
host the Community Nurse from the Gibb River area, a remarkable lady called
Angela Fisher, who provided a talk on the administration in the Kimberley -
a behind the scenes look on how communities were managed in such a remote
area. Originally from London, UK, Angie has lived and worked with the
Ngarinyin people for over ten years. Angie and another community
nurse, Mary Jane Lynch (a nun based at Ngallagunda) often come to Perth on
leave and catch up with club members whenever possible. Through them
we learn how many babies have been born, who has died and what clothing or
help is needed and send appropriate parcels to our friends.
Most of the time, our news
is gleaned through Kathy Charlesworth who keeps in phone or email
communication whenever she is 'up north'. Through Kathy we have been
able to assist Ngarinyin people apply for government grants to get to Perth
so they can be assessed for tertiary scholarships or attend special
Australian Rules football colleges or Aboriginal Art Colleges.
We help each other as you
would any friend. Sometimes friends face an immense challenge and this
is the opportunity for friendships to grow the most. What is that
saying - a friendship built through adversity lasts forever?
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November 2005
Yvonne Burgu's Art Exhibition - Thank you story
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The Art Exhibition and the White Angel
in October 2005, Yvonne's
community of 70 people at Ngallagunda was facing immense adversity.
The community store had closed, the nearest small shop was 200km away and
the nearest supermarket in Derby over 400kms away - all accessed by unsealed
roads and through unbridged rivers. During the wet season, the rivers
rise and become impassable. In previous years most members of the
community had moved to Derby during the wet season and many succumbed to the
temptations of drugs and alcohol. Traditionally, the ensuing violence
and health problems wrecked many families. Yvonne did not want this to
happen to her community again...and shared her fears with Kathy. They
discussed how, if they had a suitable vehicle, they would be able to access
traditional hunting grounds, live off crocodile, goanna and local 'bush
tucker' and the community could stay put - away from the temptations of
drugs and alcohol.
Kathy said "we can sit here
whinging or do something about it! You are a good artist - why don't
you paint and we will ask the Zonta mob to help us sell the paintings so you
can buy a four wheel drive?"
Thus began an amazing
month. Yvonne used every cent she owned and put this with Kathy's rent
money towards petrol to drive to Perth and buy good quality paints and
canvasses. Kathy, Yvonne and Yvonne's granddaughter Rebecca, aged 10,
made the journey to Perth. If this venture did not work there was not
enough money to drive back...
In Perth, Yvonne painted
continuously for four weeks in Kathy's tiny flat, keeping one ear open to
radio reports. This was a race against time - if the wet came early
they would not be able to get back across the rivers.
Kathy got in touch with
Sciona and Sciona rallied the Zonta 'troops'. In a two week period
between us all, we sourced a small gallery for the exhibition, produced
flyers, posters, certificates of authenticity, histories of the paintings
and even business cards for Yvonne. We sought advice from a local
university on how to hang the paintings and found sponsors to support the
official launch of the exhibition. A local historian, Dr Mary Ann
Jebb, kindly helped us transfer the oral stories of the paintings into
written text. The Ngarinyin language is not a written language, so
this was not an easy task.
Kathy was able to source
some newspaper coverage including a
half page colour feature
in the state-wide West Australian newspaper. Yvonne's plight inspired
the community.
The official launch was on
Yvonne's birthday. We gave her some presents of new clothing bought
specially for her - something she had not had before - that she proudly wore
for the exhibition launch. This was a magical evening that opened with
local Noongar artist, Mr Phil Narkle, welcoming Yvonne to his country in the
traditional way. Dr Jebb related the stories behind the paintings
surrounding us and for a moment we were all transported to the world of the
Wandjina. Zonta members brought platters of food and with wine
supplied by a few sponsoring wineries the evening was a great success.
Over the next week most of
the paintings sold and Yvonne's efforts raised nearly AUS$40,000.
Sciona helped her source a suitable second hand vehicle through a very
helpful local auto wholesaler and this was fitted with a snorkel (for
crossing rivers) and tight dust proof cover for the luggage tray.
Zonta Club of Perth members sourced clothes and household items and every
inch of the vehicle was filled ready for the return journey to the
Kimberley. Enough money was left in the budget for Yvonne to purchase
food for the community in Derby and a friend loaned a trailer for the
journey to Ngallagunda.
Yvonne returned to her
people in a four wheel drive filled with clothes and household items towing
a trailer behind filled with food. The vehicle was nicknamed the
'White Angel' by young Rebecca.
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Benefits of the White Angel
The wet season of 2005/2006
is a memorable one for the Ngarinyin communities along the Gibb River Road.
For the first time in years, the majority of the community at Ngallagunda
did not move out to Derby... The White Angel enabled Yvonne's
community to access their traditional hunting grounds - they ate crocodiles,
goannas and fish. They gathered the native green plum, a ripe source
of vitamin C. They were able to access and maintain their art.
They were able to have traditional ceremonies in sacred places. The
Community Nurse was also able to use the White Angel as back up when she was
visiting sick people in outlying areas. But most of all, the families stayed
together, their health improved and alcohol abuse was reduced.
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Second Ngarinyin visit
(featured in July edition of Inzert) - pdf file |
What next?
Do we 'plan' where our
friendship is going? Of course we don't. Do you plan your friendships?
It is impossible. We accept what is there and are available to help or
be helped as required. So how can we 'plan' to progress our friendship
without destroying it?
The first thing we did was
to arrange a return visit to the Kimberley by club members and for
the Ngarinyin women to visit Perth. We want to continue to strengthen
our friendship and we need to see each other to do this. A return visit
was undertaken in June 2007 and is featured in the
Club's July 2007 Inzert.
From the outset our
friendship has not been about raising money - but providing a garden of
support in which we all can grow. For example, when Yvonne needed to
raise money to buy a vehicle to keep her community together during the wet
season - we simply provided support, nurturing and reassurance (and also
gained a few new skills ourselves in the process) - at the end of the day it
was Yvonne's artistic talent and courage that raised
the money - we just provided the supportive environment for her to achieve
her aim. Through this process her
confidence improved. It touched us all to hear her reflect that during
the White Angel experience it was the first time she had not been bossed
over by white people and as she put it herself "I am now able to help my
people".
The Art Exhibition was a
wonderful example of how our friendship can work - we all thoroughly enjoyed
the experience and cannot begin to describe the 'warm fuzzy' we felt helping
our friend achieve her aim. We were truly alive all contributing to a
very worthwhile cause.
This has given us the idea
to widen our circle of friendship by mentoring indigenous students at
universities in the Perth metropolitan area. Currently, we are working
with the University of Western Australia and the Federation of University
Women to formulate a database of potential mentors that can be matched with
students in the future. A couple of members have already been matched
with students.
We are there for a long term, lifetime of friendship and whatever
grows from that is what grows. Acceptance was our first lesson and is
our guidance for the future. One dream that the Senior law-women have,
is the
Yarri Wada
Puppet Project - through this project they hope to
see their communities
have pride in their culture, good health,
good education, employment and a safe living environment...we
are currently
working together to realise this dream.
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How can you help?
Many Zontians have expressed interest in our Ngarinyin
Friendship project and want to know how they could establish a similar
project in their own area...
Our advice is based on our
limited experience and includes the following:
1. Learn about your
indigenous community, preferable through a 'go between' who is trusted in
the community. Listen to what they say. Remember many
communities have been battered by different groups of people passing through
- friends have a long term commitment - they are not short term do-gooders.
2. Don't be in a
hurry to make a friend - think of your own friendships - how were they
formed?
3. Accept what you
experience - don't judge. Friendships cannot be formed with judgement
and preconceived ideas lurking in your mind.
4. Acknowledge that
people think differently - western style culture is about ownership - for
many indigenous communities the culture is about belonging...a completely
different mind set. Neither is right or wrong they are just different
ways of thinking - accept it.
5. Enjoy your friends
- laugh and cry together - share your stories, listen and learn. You
will be enriched by the experience.
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© Zonta Club of Perth Inc, 2010.
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